The Suit Jacket

In current fashion, a key feature of the 80s trend is undoubtedly the double-breasted, broad shouldered suit jacket. This remains an iconic look from the 1980s, first popularised by the 1980 Richard Gere film, ‘American Gigolo’.

american-gigolo

The costumes for this film were designed by Georgio Armani. For Gere’s character, he made sharply tailored suits with shoulders that exaggerated the silhouette. The ‘Power Suit’ as it came to be know became incredibly popular, inferring masculinity and sophistication, and Armani went on to dominate both mens and womens fashion throughout the decade.

“In the late 1970s and early 1980s, a suit fashioned by the celebrated and influential Italian designer Giorgio Armani (1934–) became the outfit of choice for wealthy, style-conscious males. Armani suits were known for their simple yet elegant design, their striking look, and their comfort. They were custom tailored and were meticulously cut to fit the form of the purchaser. A typical Armani suit generally featured three pieces: a fully-lined, three-button blazer with padded shoulders; a matching vest; and single-pleated trousers that were lined only in front, down to the knees. The suit was black, charcoal gray, or navy blue; it was soft or textured; and it was made of the highest quality wool, cotton, cashmere, silk, or linen”

fashionencyclopedia.com

Similarly Hugo Boss became a household name synonimous with 80s suits, particularly thanks to popular TV show of the time Miami Vice. Actor Don Johnson famously wore the Hugo Boss suit jacket (broad-shouldered and double-breasted like Armani) in various pastel shades, with the sleeves rolled up. Like Gere’s ‘American Gigolo’, this look has come to typify the 1980s.

don_johnson_miami_vice0

As a departure from the formal suit, jackets were worn with casual t-shirts or jumpers. The rolled sleeves and pastel colourways also defied typical convention. Women even re-appropriated mens jackets. In an era that saw women far more concerned with business and success than having children or getting married, adopting mens jackets created that same sense of masculinity and power.

Today, the 80s revival has brought the wide shouldered suit jacket back into the mainstream. Highstreet shops now offer things like ‘boyfriend blazers’ with pre-rolled sleeves but really, the best way to achieve this classic look is by sourcing original vintage jackets. Better yet, wearing mens jackets gives an added authenticity and creates a more accentuated silhouette. Fabrics such as wool and tweed (rather than the polyester mixes as found in those highstreet blazers) hang far better on the body, do not crease and last much longer.

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One Comment

  1. Furosemide
    Posted August 4, 2009 at 8:32 pm | Permalink

    Agreed!

One Trackback

  1. By Hardy Amies | on August 22, 2009 at 3:54 pm

    [...] Hardy Amies brand is synonimous with top quality materials (as I mentioned in The Suit Jacket, wool, tweed and linen are generally more expensive than cotton or polyester mixes) and bespoke [...]

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